Ferr-L-Tite - (Blue) low temp hot melt for carbons

Discussion in 'Arrows & Components' started by mbaker74, Feb 9, 2015.

  1. mbaker74

    mbaker74 New Member

    Has anyone used Bohning Ferr-L-Tite low temp "hot melt" for installing points and pin nocks into carbon arrows? I cant find any specific instructions for it anywhere, even on Bohnings website, other than that it is specifically designed for use on carbon arrows to prevent the need to heat the shaft on installation.
     
  2. mk1

    mk1 It's an X


    I have used it for putting points into Nanos - the points came out - so having ascertained that the arrows would tune I resorted to slow set epoxy as its use was one of the recommended alternatives. On those particular arrows I just pushed in the pins for the nocks.
     
  3. Batfink

    Batfink New Member

    Used this to put the points in my new ACCs the other day.

    I followed the directions on the Easton parabolic points packaging.

    Heated glue over flame until it turned runny, put it on point shaft. Held nibb end with fingers and heated point slightly inserted point into shaft and dunked into cold water to set.

    Fingers barely got warm whilst holding points. Arrows have been shot twice now, a portsmouh and a frostbite and all points seem solid.
     
  4. Valkamai

    Valkamai New Member

    I have used it to glue the point inserts into goldtip arrows. Haven't had any problems with them (touches wood). Heated the inserts over a gas hob, press into the glue stick to coat, push into shaft, twist around full rotation and then straight into cold water. So far so good.

    Sent from my GT-I8160 using Tapatalk 2
     
  5. dvd8n

    dvd8n New Member

    At the risk of getting flamed yet again for defending the Bohning low temp hot melt, I use it for my FMJs' inserts and nock pins and it has never given me any issues.

    You use it just like ordinary hot melt but you don't need to use quite so much heat and you can adjust fit with the heat from a cup of boiling water.
     
  6. buzz lite beer

    buzz lite beer New Member

    The correct procedures recommended by Easton:-

    Aluminum and Aluminum/Carbon Shafts Point and Insert Installation Instructions

    Do not apply heat directly to the shaft.
    1.Heat a stick of Easton Hot Melt adhesive over a small gas flame until the adhesive is semi-fluid. Use only Easton hot melt adhesive.
    2.Apply a small ring of molten adhesive on the shaft end, just inside the shaft.
    3.To prevent over-heating A/C shafts, hold the point head in your fingers and carefully heat the shank end of the point or insert over a gas flame for 5 to 6 seconds. Be careful not to burn your fingers. (For aluminum shafts, pliers may be used to hold components, as overheating will happen less with the more conductive aluminum.) WARNING: OVER-HEATING SHAFT WILL VOID WARRANTY.
    4.Apply a film of adhesive completely around the entire shank of the point or insert.
    5.Put the point or insert about ¼” into the end of the shaft.
    6.Reheat the point for no more than 5 seconds to fully melt the adhesive.
    7.Without delay, slowly push the point into the shaft until it seats against the end of the shaft. Rotate point 1 or 2 revolutions while still warm. DO NOT FORCE A COMPONENT INTO THE SHAFT. Apply a little more heat to the POINT ONLY if the point “hangs up” during this step.
    8.Immediately, while adhesive is soft, wipe off any excess adhesive with a cloth or paper towel. Allow air-cooling in a point-down position.
    9.INSERTS: Use the same procedure as described. Install an RPS point into the insert prior to installation for ease of handling.

    All-Carbon Shafts (other than HIT System) Point and Insert Installation Instructions

    1.Do not use hotmelt adhesive or apply heat to any all-carbon shaft, as it can weaken or cause damage to the shaft.
    2.Use Easton or AAE brand epoxy. Only 24-hour cure flexible two-part epoxies are recommended.
    3.Apply a small ring of adhesive, just inside the end of the shaft and a generous coating on the entire shank of the point or insert.
    4.Slowly twist the point or insert into shaft and seat it against end of shaft.
    5.Wipe off any excess adhesive with a cloth or paper towel.
    6.Stand the shaft vertically on the point or insert to cure. Be sure epoxy does not flow into insert threads.
    7.This is a permanent installation, and inserts cannot be removed without damaging the shaft.


    Doesn't mention applying melted glue to points but to apply it to the end of the arrow shaft, nor does it mention or recommend rapid cooling by immersing in cold water :)
     
  7. GoneBad

    GoneBad New Member

    :stirthepo ;)

    By the way, how are we supposed to 'Apply a small ring of molten adhesive on the shaft end, just inside the shaft' on a 420 protour with a great fat stick of hotmelt?
     
  8. buzz lite beer

    buzz lite beer New Member

    You heat the point and the heat of said point melts the glue when applied to the glue stick (it doesn't mean applying hot glue to a cold point)
    The glue stick is applied to the flame to melt the glue and this is dabbed on the end of the Arrow shaft (even an X10 of any shaft size) when removed it leaves a ring of glue on the end of the shaft, when the heated point is inserted it takes the glue in with it (it's just a way of ensuring that the entire point is coated fully with glue) :)
     
  9. benmather

    benmather New Member

    Use the Bohning Low Temp on all my carbons, points & pins. Never had a problem.
     
  10. mbaker74

    mbaker74 New Member

    So plenty of people having success with the blue low temp, that fills me with more confidence.. I guess hte key with it as all glues is make sure the surfacces are clean and grease free, then plenty of glue....
    So what do people use to melt the blue LT sticks?
    Do you cool them afterwards in iced water as suggested on the Bohning site?
     
  11. ThomVis

    ThomVis New Member

    Heat gun, but I heat the shank of the point, not the stick.
    And dunking in water to cool only on carbons, so the heat doesn't affect the the resin in the carbon.
    Have the blue stick, but haven't had a chance to use it, used the yellow till now.
     
  12. dave lpb

    dave lpb New Member

    I use the blue low heat on my all carbon arrows it's great stuff have had no problems with points coming out
     
  13. dvd8n

    dvd8n New Member

    Clean up end of shaft.
    Scuff inside of shaft lightly with fine sandpaper.
    Clean inside of shaft with acetone on cotton bud.
    Scuff point* lightly with fine sandpaper.
    Clean point with acetone.
    Heat point with blowtorch**.
    Warm glue stick with blowtorch.
    Apply glue to end of point.
    Re-warm glue on point if necessary (ie if you've messed about too long and it's started to set).
    Push into shaft with a twisting motion to spread the glue.
    Throw into a mug of cold water and leave while moving onto the next arrow.

    Other people's methods will doubtless vary.

    * point / insert / pin / whatever
    ** I use a little butane blowtorch like a chef's torch that I got from Maplin's. Really any reasonably hot heat source will do. But not a full size DIY one. You can get stuff far too hot with one of those***.
    *** Ask me how I know :ashamed:
     
  14. Rik

    Rik New Member

    Is it bad of me that I can't be bothered to use a specialist hotmelt?
    does it really make a difference, if you use Easton, ferr-l-tite or bostik sticks?
     
  15. Mikey B

    Mikey B New Member

    I'm with Rik, I use Stanley glue gun sticks which you can buy a pack of 5 for the same price as one stick of specialist hotmelt.

    No special preperation or cleaning either, just make your point/insert/pin nice and hot in a blue flame (Gas hob, jet lighter, blowtorch, etc.....). Run the glue stick over it (three evenly spaced strokes along the shank usually does it... bigger diameter inserts take four).A second quick blast of heat then straight into the arrow with a twisting motion. Stand and leave to cool, peel off the excess ring of glue as soon as it's cool enough to handle and it's ready to shoot shortly after.
     
  16. Valkamai

    Valkamai New Member

    I think if you are using a carbon only arrow a low temp glue is a good idea.

    Sent from my GT-I8160 using Tapatalk 2
     

Share This Page